Natural Hair Tips

Good Hair If you’ve been following this site since the beginning, you probably know by now that we like to try new things and have fun with the blog.

Today I have an interesting concept and I want to give you, the natural hair community, an opportunity to share natural hair advice and tips in the comment section of this post.

I thought it would be fun to see if we can create a post that ends up having a huge collection of natural hair tips and advice that naturals can continue to reference for months to come.

There are no rules, so let’s keep this post open ended, interesting and provide the Natural Hair Community with some awesome natural hair tips.

I’ll start….check the comment section.

How to Prevent Hair Breakage

Natural Hair Women How to Prevent Hair Breakage

I received an interesting email from a newsletter subscriber last week:

“Hi! My main concern is preventing breakage, because I had two areas where I had a little breakage.”

There are a couple of things that are important to note. In terms of age, the ends of your hair are the oldest parts of your hair. These ends have been exposed to more natural wear and tear than the rest of your hair – due to normal handling, styling and other elements like weather.

If you are experiencing excessive breakage, the first thing I want you to do is write down everything that you are currently doing to your hair. Read our natural hair 101 article if you need more information about exactly what you should write down. After completing that step, read the information below and see if you can identify what’s causing your hair to break.

Your Hair Needs Moisture and Protein

Since black natural hair usually has a tight curl pattern, it is difficult for natural oils from your scalp to travel completely down the hair shaft. This means that you need to specifically moisturize the ends of your hair as often as needed. If you’re currently experiencing dry hair, you should begin moisturizing your hair daily and make adjustments as you learn what your hair needs.

One way to help retain moisture is to pre-poo or perform a pre-shampoo treatment on your hair. This refers to applying oils and/or conditioners to your hair prior to shampooing the hair. You can leave the treatment on your hair for several minutes or over a longer a period of time – like overnight. If you decide to leave the treatment on overnight, you can use a baggying method (baggy job). A baggy job refers to applying moisturizer to the hair and then wrapping or covering your hair with a plastic bag, saran wrap or shower cap. After you moisturize your hair, be sure to seal in the moisture using butters or oils. For more about one of the most common causes of breakage, check out this article on moisture and protein balance.

Trimming Your Split-Ends

Have you ever heard of a search and destroy mission? In natural hair lingo, this means looking through your hair, especially the ends of your hair, to find split ends, knots or weak spots and cutting them out with hair shears. This technique of cutting split ends is really a form of preventative maintenance, because split-ends may eventually travel up the hair shaft – potentially making a minor split grow over time. Have you ever had a crack in your car windshield? They generally start small, but if left untreated (or repaired), then that crack will grow  due to general weathering. Think about the split-ends on your hair the same way – if left untreated – they can continue to cause problems for your hair.

Tight Hairstyles and Accessories

You must resist wearing tight hairstyles – like tight ponytails and braids. When worn too tight, these hairstyles apply unnecessary stress on your hair and scalp. To be clear, these styles are fine as long as they’re not overly tight. When pulling your hair back or pinning it up, use clips and bobby pins when possible – never use tight rubber bands on your hair. Tight rubber bands and other tight accessories can cause unnecessary damage to your hair strands.

Satin Is Your Friend

If you are currently sleeping on cotton sheets or pillowcases and not wrapping your hair with a satin scarf or wearing some kind of satin head covering, then it is very likely that the cotton is robbing your hair of moisture every single night. The constant rubbing against a cotton pillow can cause excessive dryness and breakage. Using satin at night can also encourage 2nd day hair – that is a hairstyle that can last more than one day without needing major restyling. When wearing hats, you can tie a satin scarf around your head then put on the hat or try to find satin-lined hats.

Detangling and Styling

When detangling your hair, the Tangle Teezer and Denman Detangling Brush are products that we recommend on our resource page, but those styling tools  may not work for everyone. If you are experiencing excessive breakage, make sure you are not over-styling with tools. Excessive combing or brushing causes constant tug and pull on your hair strands which can lead to unnecessary breakage. It is important that you make time to care for your hair properly and never rush through your hair care regimen or styling process. In addition, if you have the time, you can try finger combing as a way to detangle.

Heat

Heat robs your hair of moisture and applying heat to your hair may cause immediate damage. Even if it doesn’t, it can weaken your hair strands over time and eventually lead to breakage. It is critical that you eliminate or greatly minimize the use of heat on your hair. If you must use heat, do it no more than once per week – maximum.

Protective Styling

To prevent breakage it is critical that you reduce the need to manipulate your hair and protect the ends of the hair strands. It’s important to note that protective styling is about more than wearing protective styles. Check out this article for more information on protective styling.

I Big Chopped, Now What?

Jeanetta Big Chop If you have ever asked this question, “I big chopped, now what? It can be a very scary feeling. The uncertainty and being unprepared is like driving at night with the headlights off in a new place It’s paralyzing and will have your back tracking your steps.

Experience with the big chop or going natural can be very exciting and brand new. But when the newness wears off and the dust settles, you can feel like you really messed up and you begin to regret your decision. Just recently, I had a great opportunity to speak with community member Jeanetta concerning her moments immediately before and after her big chop to offer guidance on shampooing and dry hair after the big chop.

When to big chop

Jeanetta asked a great question, “When should I big chop?” My answer was simple, “When you are ready.” Normally, when women transition mentally, the transition is about accepting their hair for what it is without the chemical relaxer.

I Big Chopped, Now What?

Jeanetta joined the community and shortly after, she relaxed her hair. The weeks before joining, after searching YouTube for  DIY quick weave hair styles, she stumbled across a natural hair video and she was intrigued ever since. Jeanetta admits, “I decided I wanted to go natural a day after my perm on June 16, 2011. Today is the 29th and I big chopped. Two weeks after my relaxer, I big chopped!”

Jeanetta also asked, “Does anyone have a problem with dry a TWA or is it my hair type?”

Tighter curls/coils do have dry issues. But before we chalk it up to the coils and curls, lets exam your regimen and products. How often do you shampoo and when was the last time you used a clarifying shampoo? Jeanetta, admits, “I used to wash every day. Now, I only wash my hair twice a week.”Base on frequency of shampoos you can easily strip the natural sebum oil from the hair strands. If twice a week seems drying as well, you may have to further reduce the frequency to once a week or once every 10 days. Another avenue to consider is clarifying.

When your hair stops responding to products or starts to become dry and unruly, it may be time to clarify and start over. Removing product build up on your hair can give your hair a fresh new start. If you find that your hair does not have build-up and you wash it anyway, this can be drying to your hair because you are removing the natural sebum oil from your strands too frequently. If you feel that you need to wash your hair frequently, try adding a co-wash to your regimen.

Natural Hair & Product Experiments 101

Be prepared to experiment with products for your natural hair a great deal when you big chop. Many women when they big chop discover that many of the products no longer work the same. This is because the needs of your natural hair are very different from the needs of your relaxed hair. Most likely during the transition period, the new growth was straightened to blend the two textures vs. catering to the new growth and keeping the relaxed hair curled to blend the two textures. This experimenting can be costly because you are searching for the perfect product to moisturize and define your curls.

Big Chop

However, going natural and having natural hair does not have to cost a small fortune and here is how: my method of going natural allows you to become familiar with your natural hair before your buy a plethora of costly products that may or may not work. I advise women to use what you have first. The baseline needs are: shampoo, conditioner, water & oil and a styling product. If at all possible, if a product does not respond well, add a little oil to the product until you completely finish the product and don’t buy it again. At the beginning of your journey, I don’t suggest taking on the task of tackling sulfates, cones and ingredient reading just yet. That part of your journey will come soon enough. Allow the novelty of your big chop to subside before diving full speed ahead into buying products. Below, I have recommended baseline hair products that are cost conscience while experimenting:

Natural Hair & Product Experiments 101

How to Use the Bundle Package and Beginning Your Regimen

From the list, pick a shampoo, conditioner, an oil to add to your water (equal amount of water and oil in a spray bottle) and a styling product. From this list of effective yet cost conscience products, you will mix and match as needed. Choose a clarifying shampoo and deep conditioner first. Then, begin using the products that you choose as a bundle for at least a week before for changing a product or adding a new product.  The purpose of the bundle package is to minimize your products so that you can begin to document what works and what doesn’t work.

Document Your Experience

Writing down and taking pictures of what you have done in the past, helps you to remember. In this day and age, information is king – you can even vlog it! There is no wrong way to document your journey, except for not documenting it at all. The importance of documenting allows you to compare before and after pictures of your hair – showing you exactly what the product can actually do for you. Remember that no product can take your tightly coiled hair and make it loose wavy hair, expect chemicals. So be open and accepting to what you discover about your natural hair.

Jeanetta, thank you so much for chatting with me. I look forward to seeing you mastering your journey and to see it bloom over the months to come.

Natural Art Maven Goes Natural with the Big Chop

Natural Art Maven Basic Information

Last Relaxer: September 2010

Big Chop Date: October 2010

Where are you from: Originally from Houston but currently residing in Atlanta.

Introduction

One of the newest members of the community gave me the opportunity to chat with her. NaturalArtMaven is striving for a healthier lifestyle and she is now focusing on healthy natural hair.

Memories and Experiences

What are your earliest memories about your natural hair, your experience with a relaxer and going natural?

I really don’t remember a whole lot about my natural hair from when I was a child.  My mother relaxed my hair when I was five.  What I remember about my hair is negative.  I remember that washing and “doing” my hair took all day on Sunday (even after I was relaxed, it took a long time), it hurt…a lot and all people talked about was how thick it was.

So from your experience, having thick hair was seen as negative?

I grew up thinking that thick hair was a curse or something bad.  Any time my hair was loose, women always remarked about how thick it was.  “Whoa, that child has some thick hair!”  “Oh, my!  Where did you get all of that thick hair from, child?”  The way they looked at me and shook their heads when they said this, made me think that my hair was bad.  I was and still am, very tender headed and this made it an extra challenge for anyone to do my hair.  I have always hated going to the salon, because stylists are so rough and I always leave with a headache.  I learned to do my own hair to include coloring, trimming and relaxing, in high school so that I could avoid the salon.

My mom is not very skilled with doing hair; she can’t even do her own.  My mom gets her hair done religiously every week.  She says she doesn’t know how to do hair because she grew up in a family with beauticians and barbers and never had to do her own hair.  Someone has always done her hair for her all of her life.  So when I came along with this thick mass of hair and had the nerve to be tender headed, it was too much for her.  I remember that I hated having to wear 5,001 ponytails because the barrettes on the end used to swing and hit me in the eye when I would play with my friends.  Plus, none of my friends wore their hair plaited all of the time.  My friends had silky, straight, flowing hair.  My hair was long, but it didn’t do what theirs did.  I wanted to wear ONE ponytail in the back of my head that swung back and forth when I walked down the hall at school.  I grew up in a mixed environment, with Caucasians, Hispanics, Asians and Eastern Indians at my school.

Natural Hair Maven

Attending a mixed school – is there anything that your parents could have told you to make you happy with your hair?

I don’t think so.  Because of the environment that I grew up in, I think I truly grew up color-blind.  I did not understand that my hair was different because of my race.  My mom did tell me that “white” people washed their hair every day because it got oily, but that our hair was dry, so we put oil in it.  She also told me that when they “permed” their hair, it got curly and when we did it, it made our hair straight.  I think after that I was on a quest to find the curly perm.  Lol!  I remember asking once, if I got their perm, would I have curly hair. I truly did not understand what my hair was actually like and why it was being straightened.  I thought it was so it would be less thick.  I was truly fascinated when I did the BC and I still am.  I have serious hand in hair syndrome, and my hair is more kinky than curly.

Bye Bye Press and Curl, Hello Perm!

I had my hair straightened with a pressing comb once, and it was disastrous.  After hours of tears and a burn to the forehead, I ruined the press later that evening when I took my bath.  No one told me you couldn’t get it wet and that particular evening I decided to teach myself how to swim…in the bathtub.  My mom walked in the moment I was coming up from the water.  If looks could kill, this interview would be my eulogy. After the experience, my mom told me I was getting a “perm.”

Relaxed Hair

I was excited to get a “perm” because my mom said that I would be able to wear ONE ponytail.  She still plaited my hair up all of the time and I was never allowed to wear my hair loose, but I went from 5,001 ponytails to 2,500.  That was a success as far as I was concerned, until my hair started to break off.  By fifth grade, my mom decided that she was no longer going to do my hair and turned those duties over to me.  I didn’t know how to care for my hair and always tried to emulate the styles of my non-black friends at school, which lead to breakage.  I would shampoo and not use conditioner (I didn’t even know what it was for), pull my hair back with rubber bands on my wet hair, I used a boar’s head bristle brush to comb/detangle my matted hair after shampooing and swimming everyday and pulled a lot of hair out as well (once I learned to swim, you couldn’t keep me out of the pool).  Every time I went for a re-touch, my mom’s stylist was chopping off more and more hair.  One day I complained, “how come you’re always chopping off my hair?”  She explained that it was damaged and asked me how I was caring for my hair.  She is the reason I started using a wide tooth comb and started using scrunchies instead of office rubber bands.

Trial and Error

Throughout the years, I learned to care for my hair myself through trial and error.  I’ve had chemical burns from stylist’s, I even had a friend wash out my relaxer with conditioner and not the neutralizing shampoo so it was in my hair for a day before I realized what had happened.  My hair has fallen out in clumps, been dry, brittle and ragged and “healthy” and long.  I feel like I have been through the whole gamut of hair woes and triumphs.  The one thing I always wanted, but couldn’t seem to obtain was curls.  Funny, I know, because it is naturally kinky curly.

There was a model that used to be in the Juicy Fruit commercials that had what I now know is natural hair.  I loved her hair and took a picture of her to my mom’s stylist to see if she could make my hair like hers.  She told me she had “good hair” and that I could achieve that look with a perm set on mini rods, but that she didn’t know how to do that.  I went to a stylist at my church and she told me that she had never heard of that but could give me a wash and set on the small perm rods.  I asked her if she would do it, but she refused because she said I wouldn’t like it.  She said that it would look like I had a little afro.  The idea intrigued me and I asked her to do it anyway, but she said no.  Later in college, I used to do what I now know is a “Bantu knot-out” to try to make my hair look like Jill Scott.  If only I had known then what I know now!

Mommy, Help!

Of course hindsight is 20/20. Knowing what you know now, what are some things you wished your mom would have told you about caring for your hair?

Honestly, she did not tell me anything at all.  She would buy me any tools I asked for to care for it, but she never gave me any instruction.  I believe that this is because, she didn’t and still doesn’t know how to care for hair.  She does not know how to care for her own hair, so she could not tell me how to care for mine.  The only thing our hair has in common is the length factor.  Her hair grows fast and long as well.

I wished that there had been someone that could have explained when the hair duties were turned over to me, the structure of hair and general requirements for how to care for it.  There were times that I would use a bar of soap to wash it, because I assumed that what was good for my body was good for my hair.  I never started tying my hair down at night and protecting it until I went to boarding school my junior year of high school.  Living in a dorm with other girls, taught me a lot about how to care for my hair and how to be a female in general (I have all brothers and no female cousins my age).

The turning point came for me two years ago when I decided to change my lifestyle to live a healthier one.  I started eating better and exercising.  I come from a family of vegetarians, vegans, herbalists, etc so living a more natural lifestyle is not completely foreign to me, but I had gotten away from it and gotten really fat. Last fall, it hit me that if I didn’t want to put chemicals in my body and I watched what I put in my body, why would I put chemicals in my hair and not watch what went on my body?  At that moment, I decided to go natural and started to research it.  Wow, I was shocked and excited to find the wealth of knowledge that is online!

Two Strand Twists

What Were You Taught?

Growing up, what types of things were instilled in you about your natural hair?

That it was bad because it was so thick.  I was blessed and cursed.  I had long hair, but it was thick and thick was bad.

At the point when you went to the stylist to have your hair like the girl in the commercial, did you think that perms made you have “good hair”?

No, I considered “good hair” to be like Tia & Tamara Mowry, which looked like the girl from the Juicy Fruit commercials.  The curly hair that they had was what I was trying to achieve.  I assumed that they were mixed and even though the girl in the Juicy Fruit commercial was brown skinned, I assumed she must be mixed too.  Curly hair (type 3-4a) is what I thought was “good hair.”  I also considered thin hair to be “good hair” as well.

On my mother’s side, everyone has long, but thin, fine hair.  My hair was coarse and thick, or at least that is what I thought because that is what they told me.  My hair is not neccessarily coarse.  I have a variety of textures from fine to thick strands and coarse strands at the temples.  My hair is kinky-curly because I have patches of fine curls in the back, kinky hair at the crown and temples, and thick coils on top and everywhere else.  My head is like a kinky-curly patchwork quilt.

On my father’s side, he and my grandmother have very thick, very coarse hair that grows very slowly. It seemed as if it was deemed as “bad hair” and because my hair was more like theirs, in terms of thickness, I thought I had bad hair.  A relaxer is all that I have known, so I never considered it to make my hair good or bad.  In fact, I was always envied and complimented on my hair because of the length and how fast it would grow.  Whenever someone touched it or when I went to the salon and people realized how much hair I had is when I felt negativity.  So I equated having thick hair or so much hair as being what was bad.  I used to wish for thinner hair.  Weird, I know.

In your wildest dreams, did you ever imagine that you would one day shave all of your hair off?

Lol, no.  I’ve always thought that I have a really big head.  Hats never fit and I have a hard time buying jackets with hoods.  I usually have to buy a men’s size if I want it to actually cover my head.  About four years ago I cut all of my hair into a short hair cut and instantly decided to grow it back the next day.  My face was too big!  It was about 2” relaxed and I hated it.  I wore a wig for awhile until it was a little longer.  I grew it out some and then had it cut again into an asymmetrical style that suited my face better.  I would never think I would completely cut it all off and rock a Caesar.

Why not transition, big chopping is so drastic? Weren’t you concerned about what others would think about your new look?

I’ve kind of come into my own over the last couple of years and I didn’t care what anyone else thought.  I was doing this for me and my health and that is what was important to me.  I can’t live for others.  I’m also very impatient and some what impulsive. I decided to go natural about two weeks or so after I had gotten a relaxer.  My hair grows pretty quickly, so I figured I would have enough hair to big chop in a couple of weeks.  The top of my head grows slower than the rest of my hair, so I just needed to wait until it grew out some more.  The day of the big chop, my stylist was not at her shop.  I called her and told her that I was cutting my hair and I needed her to recommend someone who could cut it “rit now!”  She wanted me to wait until she could do it, but I was like “no.”  I told her to recommend someone that wouldn’t jack me “’cause my hair has to go tonight.”  I threatened that if she didn’t do so, I would go home and do it myself and then she would have to fix my jacked up dome.  Lol.  I was afraid that if I waited, I would chicken out.  I had spent all day psyching myself up to do it.  When I walked into the salon and told the stylist that I wanted her to cut off all of the “relaxed” hair, she looked through my hair and said, “but you will look like a man!”  I told her as long as I didn’t leave with a bald fade, I was good.  I told her I expected it to be short like a Caesar with possibly tapered sides.  She was so scared to cut it that she cut it an inch at a time just in case I changed my mind.  I kept telling her just get the clippers and shear it off!  She even cut it into a short style and asked me how I liked it.  I told her it’s cute, but that’s not what I came here for.  Cut it ALL off.  I don’t want any relaxer left.  Please do what I ask.  When she was done, I was completely in awe and fascinated.  I actually thought it was really cute and complimented my face.  I felt liberated and free.  I was so ecstatic and to her relief, I practically danced out of the shop.  She left a little bit of relaxer in the front as “spikes” because I didn’t have enough new growth.  I cut those spikes off within two weeks.  Nothing was going to stop me from being completely relaxer free.  I liked the cut so much that I kept it up for a couple months before actually starting to grow it out.

Wash and Go Sterotypes About Short Hair and Women

Short hair and women comes with a host of negative stereotypes, the main one is that short hair is not feminine as the stylist felt compelled to inform you of. Tell us your thoughts about this stereotype and how do you keep it feminine while rocking the short hair style?

Well, from my experience with my ultra short cut, I would say that it made me look edgier and perhaps more attractive. Many of my male friends told me that I should keep the cut; it was cute and sexy.  Men were stopping me in the grocery store, on the street and seemingly wherever I went just to compliment me. If the time allowed, they asked for my number.  Talk about a confidence booster!  It was always so unexpected and that just made it even better.  Once while shopping on the frozen foods aisle at the grocery store, a man walked by and literally stopped in his tracks and blurted out “You’re beautiful!”  My boyfriend loved it as well and wanted me to keep my hair cut short.

I’m not much of a make-up wearer, but once I big chopped to a brush cut, I made sure I kept my eyebrows on point; keeping them arched.  Other than that and huge earrings, especially on bad hair days, that is all I have done.

Some may think that if you have a brush cut or a Caesar Cut there is no need for products. What do you think and what type of products do you currently use?

The first couple of weeks I did experiment with products to define the curl.  Eco-Styler did the best job, but I’ve never really been a fan of gel and I hate crunchy hair.  It also made my scalp itch really bad and the scratching caused flakes.  For the most part, I did not use products to “style” or “define” my hair and I still don’t.  I’m a simple gal, and I don’t like a lot of steps.  My main concern was for healthy hair.  I knew the hair I had then would become my ends later so I wanted to take care of them.  My first few months were spent experimenting and getting to know my hair.  I struggle with keeping it moisturized and went through a lot of bad hair days.  My regimen is to shampoo every week or week and a half (currently liquefied black soap that I make), deep condition with a homemade concoction and spray a leave-in (currently a variation of the Kimmaytube leave in).  I twist my hair with a shea butter/cupuaçu whip that I make.  My hair hates shea butter in any form except in this mix that I initially made for my body.

What is the best advice you have received about your natural hair and your natural hair journey?

Listen to your hair, it will tell you what it needs, likes and doesn’t like.  Find a routine that works for you and stick to it.  Not everyone’s hair is the same, even if it is the same hair “type.”  What someone else does may not necessarily work for you and vice versa.  Sticking to what is working will save you time, money and frustration.

Natural Art Maven, thank you for taking the time to share your story and your natural hair experience with the community. I have enjoyed reading your story and I look forward to chatting more with you in the community.

Is Natural Hair Just a Fad?

Natural Hair Questions Do you remember Napster? What about Chia Pets or Cabbage Patch Dolls? Oh, man, what about those old cinnamon toothpicks? Those things were great!

And, let’s not forget about that haircut style poster that hangs in nearly every barbershop in America. When I was just a kid, I remember starring at that poster as I waited to get my haircut. I would wonder to myself if I should get the high-top fade with a part on the right side or if I should keep it basic and go for the brush cut with a part on the left. This felt like a huge decision as a kid.

However, looking back on that time, it’s clear that most of those things were just fads.

 

Lately, several people have asked me whether I thought the natural hair movement was just a fad. Instead of simply giving you my opinion on the topic, let’s take a scientific approach to the issue.

 

According to Wikipedia, “a fad is any form of behavior that develops among a large population and is collectively followed with enthusiasm for some period, generally as a result of the behavior being perceived as novel in some way. A fad is said to “catch on” when the number of people adopting it begins to increase rapidly. The behavior will normally fade quickly once the perception of novelty is gone.”

 

Using that as our “official” definition, let’s dive into the this discussion.

 

The definition specifically says that for a fad to exist a form of behavior must develop among a large population. While the population of women still relaxing is probably larger than the population that has decided to go natural, I would consider the natural hair population to be relatively large comparatively speaking.

 

Next, the definition states that the fad then must be collectively followed with enthusiasm for some period of time. While the meaning of the phrase “some period” is subjective and may vary among each person, I think that most of us would agree that the movement has been followed collectively with enthusiasm over some period. So far, using this scientific approach results are pointing towards the movement being a “fad”, but let’s dig a little deeper.

The definition then says that a fad is generally perceived as novel in some way and once the perception of novelty is gone the fad begins to fade.

I think that this is the most interesting part of the definition. Do you think the natural hair movement is seen by naturals as something new and different? What happens once that refreshingly new feeling (novelty) begins to wear off? Will naturals begin to revert back to creamy crack?

 

Even when using a scientific approach to answering this question, we’re left without a conclusive answer.

Here’s my personal opinion: I think we’re potentially asking the wrong question. Maybe a more appropriate question is: Was getting a relaxer only a fad? We were all born with natural hair and chose to relax for some period of time – just like some of us who chose to get Jheri Curls or a high-top fade with a part on the right side. That tells me that maybe getting a relaxer was just a fad.

So, that’s my personal opinion, but it’s only one opinion. I want to hear what you think about the natural hair movement. Is this movement just a fad?

Natural Hair 101

Natural Hair If you’re new to Natural Hair Community: We would like to give you a warm welcome! Please continue reading. This is the best place for you to get started.

If you’re NOT new: Check out the Best of Natural Hair Community:

Natural Hair 101

In order to have a successful natural hair journey, you must first understand exactly what the term natural hair really means.

There are several different definitions of the term, but below I’ve provided the most common definition, and the one that we will talk about most often on the blog:

The term natural hair is defined as relaxer-free hair, which is different from chemical-free hair. Chemicals, on the surface, are often considered dangerous, but this is often times not the case at all. Most chemicals that you encounter on a daily basis are perfectly safe and harmless. For example, water or H2O is a safe chemical.

Black natural hair is sometimes labeled as nappy hair that needs to be corrected by a relaxer. We’ve heard of situations where women have been discriminated against in the workplace due to having natural hairstyles, which are deemed unprofessional by some employers. Others have been denied jobs or promotions because of their natural hair. Natural hair has also caused relationship issues for many couples.

This site is about helping you understand your hair and providing you with information and resources to naturally achieve healthy natural hair. We often interview other naturals on the site because we want to give everyone the opportunity to share their experiences with natural hair. We often learn the most by reading and analyzing other people’s experiences. It’s also encouraging when you see pictures of other women with natural hair and hear them speak positively about their natural hair journey. These stories often serve as proof that your journey can be just as successful if you’re willing to invest the time and energy into learning to care for your hair properly.

The Real Reason You’re Struggling on Your Natural Hair Journey (if applicable)

There are problems with some of the advice that’s typically given out online. Some natural hair advisors or product manufacturers will tell you that you need to find the perfect product or simply master protective styling to have a successful natural hair journey.

If you’ve tried some of these techniques and haven’t found the success that you’re aiming for, you probably know by now that you need more than generic recycled advice.

That’s one of the main reasons that we built Natural Hair Community.

Our hair care method is based on a comprehensive blueprint for building a successful natural hair journey. It’s not designed to only provide short-term results for you, but to also build a robust foundation that will lead to a lifetime of success on your natural hair journey.

Natural Hair Blueprint

The Natural Hair Blueprint will be your guide throughout the course of building a successful natural hair journey. The blueprint is based on everything that Jael and I have learned over the years reading cosmetology books, scientific periodicals, performing general research and by advising naturals around the world and watching their natural hair improve.

The blueprint is divided into three pillars: foundation, products, and styling and maintenance. Each of these pillars work to help you improve your natural hair journey. This blueprint is intended to be balanced, however depending on your strengths – you may need to spend more time on certain areas of the blueprint to see real improvements in your natural hair.

Actionable Opportunities

We like to focus on taking action and interaction. Taking action is the best way to receive benefit from this website. We try to thoroughly explain concepts and give you very specific ways to take action.

A key component of the Natural Hair Blueprint is building relationships with people in the community. This website is structured to make sure that you can get plenty of interaction with other community members. We expect that many of your community interactions will become beneficial relationships.

Understanding Your Hair Type

We tend not to focus on hair types in our articles for one very specific reason. Regardless of hair type – there are several common things that are often overlooked that everyone needs to do in order to have healthy natural hair. At times we will write articles for specific types of hair, but keep this simple point in mind – you must drink plenty of water, reduce stress, wear protective styles, limit the amount of heat you put on your hair, wash your hair regularly and more regardless of your hair type. In addition, many people have multiple hair types or categorizations on their head, so we tend to focus on those types of things here instead of your hair type.

Advice That Will Help You Start Your Natural Hair Journey

There is no right or wrong way to go natural; the important element is that you are. If you decide to transition it’s important to know that the line of demarcation is where the natural hair and relaxed hair meet. You’ll definitely notice a difference in the texture of your natural hair and your relaxed hair. Relaxers weaken your hair, leaving it dull and damaged over time.

You’ll learn that your hair will tell you what it needs and it’s critical that you pay attention to what it is telling you. Selecting your initial set of natural hair products is important and many naturals spend quite a bit of time trying new products in an attempt to find the perfect product for their hair. You must get to know your hair to understand which products will work best for you.

My advice to you: Start a natural hair journal and begin documenting everything that you do to your hair.

The Truth about Hair Shedding

Some experts estimate that shedding more than 100 hairs per day is perfectly normal. About 10% of the hairs on your head are in a resting phase (i.e. telogen), and those hairs fall out after about 2 or 3 months. The other 90% (roughly) of your hairs are growing at any given time. Hair growth occurs in cycles consisting of three phases: Anagen (growth phase), Catagen (transitional phase) and Telogen (resting phase). Hair grows at different rates for different people; the average rate is around one-half inch per month. Due to a short active growth phase, some people have difficulty growing their hair beyond a certain length.

My advice to you:Don’t worry too much about your hair shedding unless it seems truly excessive. If your hair shedding does seem excessive, you should start by investigating the following areas: tight hairstyles, diet and nutrition, current medications, stress, illnesses, nervous habits, Alopecia Areata and hormonal changes. Several of these issues may require the professional diagnoses of a medical doctor to determine the root cause of the hair shedding.

Prevent Breakage and Split-ends

Your hair is dead material, which is the reason why you can treat it with strong chemicals, cut it with scissors or apply heat to it without feeling a thing. The only problem with that is – since your hair is not alive, it cannot repair itself. Damage to the hair must be trimmed away or grown out. For example, there is not a permanent cure for split-ends. There are some conditioners that can essentially patch split-ends and make them less visible, but over a period of time those split-ends will reappear. The only way to permanently get rid of your split-ends is to trim them away. You should absolutely never burn away your split-ends.

Hair breakage is the most common cause of hair loss. Tight hairstyles (ex. tight ponytails and braids) can break off the hair and damage the hair follicle. If your hair constantly breaks you will need to identify exactly what’s causing the breakage and eliminate the culprit to prevent further breakage. The most common causes of breakage are heat, harsh chemicals, tight hairstyles and rough treatment.

My advice to you: Hot appliances, like flat irons, curling irons and pressing combs, are popular, but often lead to serious hair damage because their high heats can result in brittle, dry hair that breaks easily – especially when it’s overused. If you decide to use heat, then you should definitely use a heat protectant, but understand that it’s impossible to completely protect the hair from heat damage. If an appliance is hot enough to burn your skin, then there is a legitimate chance that the appliance will damage your hair.

Make sure that your hairstyles aren’t overly tight and stay away from chemical processes that change the structure of your hair and handle your hair with care. Too-frequent manipulation (combing, brushing, tugging, pulling, etc.) can lead to increased breakage.

Health, Nutrition, Hair Vitamins and Supplements

Generally speaking the same nutritious foods that are good for your body promote stronger, healthier hair. If you don’t eat a healthy diet, your hair could suffer.

Your hair doesn’t contain vitamins – it is not a living structure. If you’re eating a balanced, nutritious diet there is very little benefit gained from taking hair vitamins and supplements. If you simply concentrate on eating low-fat proteins, dairy products, fruits, vegetables and whole grains you can help your hair reach its full potential.

If you are NOT eating a balanced, nutritious diet or have a medical condition or imbalance you might need vitamins and supplements to help your hair reach its full potential.

My advice to you: Eat a healthy, well-balanced, diet and save your money on hair vitamins and supplements unless you have a medical condition or imbalance.

Exercise

There is no evidence that exercise has any direct benefit to the health of your hair.

My advice to you: Exercise regularly because it reduces stress and promotes general health – which indirectly can have substantive impacts on the success of your natural hair.

Shampooing

The most often purchased natural hair product is shampoo. The main problem that I see with shampoos is that there are so many different types; one for every type of hair and/or scalp condition. It’s easy to get confused when choosing a product as simple as shampoo.

My advice to you: Choose products that are designed to be gentle on your hair and are pH-balanced. Most experts will agree that a pH-balanced shampoo is essential to preventing excessive dryness and hair damage during the shampooing process.

How often should you wash your hair?

Each head of hair is different, so there is really no correct answer. However, you can tell when you’re washing your hair too much if it starts to get dull, which means it’s time to scale back on the shampooing. By over-washing your hair, you can wash away your hair’s natural moisture which helps your hair look healthy. If you’re not washing your hair often enough, you can have product build-up which could negatively impact your hair.

My advice to you: When washing use lukewarm water, because hot water can strip the scalp of sebum, which is the protective oil that acts as a natural conditioner and gives your hair its shine. When you create your initial natural hair regimen, begin by washing your hair once per week. Record how your hair responds for a few weeks and make adjusts as necessary.

Conditioning

Conditioners are intended to deposit protein or moisture into the hair strand to restore the hair’s strength, give your hair body and to protect your hair against possible breakage. The effects of conditioners are only temporary. The term conditioner is often used to describe many different things. For example, there are finishing rinses, cream rinses, protein conditioners, hot oil treatments, deep conditioning treatments and leave-in conditioners – and I’ve only named a few.

My advice to you: Start by regularly conditioning your hair after shampooing and having a deep-penetrating conditioner every month. You should document how your hair responds in a hair journal and make adjustments as needed. Also, buying really expensive products isn’t necessary, but you should beware of products that are extremely inexpensive relative to the competition.

Styling Your Hair

Protective styling is critical to the success of your natural hair journey. The lack of using protective styles is often the reason that several women suffer from excessive breakage and fail to grow their hair to their desired length.

A protective hairstyle requires minimal upkeep, gives you the opportunity to moisturize daily, and it keeps the ends of your hair safe and tucked away – protected. You can successfully grow your hair quite long with the appropriate selection of products, proper styling and handling.

My advice to you: Find a few protective styles that you like and frequently incorporate them into your natural hair regimen, so you can protect the ends of your hair. Growing long hair is about mitigating hair breakage to retain the hair that you currently have – and protective styling allows you to accomplish this.

Below are some examples of my favorite protective hairstyles. The list includes Updos, Bantu Knots, Buns and French Rolls.

Protective Styles Troubleshooting

During your natural hair journey, there are many different things that you might have to correct: dry hair, oily hair and dandruff are just a few.

Generally speaking you should refer to your natural hair journal when you’re experiencing a problem with your hair. It’s the primary guide to correcting your hair problems. You should begin asking yourself questions until you determine the potential root cause of the problem.

For example, have you changed anything about your regimen recently? Are you shampooing more often? What about taking a new medication? Did you recently start a stressful job? When was the last time you applied heat to your hair?

Use a root cause approach to correcting the issues that you identify. This troubleshooting technique is based on the premise that you can solve many problems that you’re having with your hair by addressing (correcting or eliminating) the potential root causes, as opposed to only addressing the symptoms.

For example, dry hair can be caused by external factors like harsh shampoo, chlorine, applying heat to hair, too much sun or wind exposure and hard shower water to name a few. On the other hand, dry hair can also be caused by internal factors such as medications, nutritional deficiency or medical illnesses.

My advice to you: Identify the root cause of your “hair problem” and address the root cause.

And finally, we’re here for you as you progress through your natural hair journey. Feel free to leave a comment or let us know if you have any questions.

Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl & Style Conditioning Milk

Shea Moisture Organic Coconut and Hibiscus Curl and Style Conditioning Milk Guest post by community member Angela

Product Name: Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl & Style Conditioning Milk

Purchase Price: $9.99 regular price

Rating for this product: 4 out of 5 stars

The Good: It has a light, creamy consistency; not too thick and not too thin. I used this product for shingling after shampooing & conditioning, 2 strand twists for a twist-out after shampoo & conditioning, and hair dressing on my dry hair. The smell is divine, it’s moisturizing and not greasy, also this product has a good amount of hold. It was able to hold a twist-out style for 2-3 days. My hair was easy to pick through after the application; it also softened my hair very nicely. The 8 oz. bottle is very easy to handle.

The Bad: I really can’t think of anything I didn’t like about it.

The Final Word: This is a really versatile product that moisturizes well without being heavy or greasy.

Buy Now from Amazon:
Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl & Style Conditioning Milk

Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curling Control Shampoo

Shea Moisture Organic Coconut and Hibiscus Curl Control Shampoo Guest post by community member Angela

Product Name: Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curling Control Shampoo

Purchase Price: $9.99 regular price

Rating for this product: 2 out of 5 stars

The Good: It has a milky, creamy consistency. It lathers well, and the scent is divine. For me, it worked as a clarifying shampoo. The 12 oz. bottle is very easy to handle.

The Bad: I seemed to be in the minority with other reviewers of this product, but it ended up drying my hair (4a) out. I washed weekly with it; after the 3rd or 4th use, I noticed my hair had become a bit crunchy. I assumed it was from some other products I had been testing. I finally figured it out around the 6th or 7th use it was the shampoo. It did not leave my hair feeling as it usually feels using another shampoo. I had to do double time with my own conditioning and leave-on products to get it in the state I am used to it being in. I stopped using it 4 weeks ago and went back to my old shampoo, and my hair is coming back around.

The Final Word: I really wanted to like this product, but the way it works for me, I have absolutely no use for it.

Buy Now from Amazon: Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curling Control Shampoo

Shea Moisture Organic Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie

Shea Moisture Organic Coconut and Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie Guest post by community member Angela

Product Name: Shea Moisture Organic Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie

Purchase Price: $9.99 regular price

Rating for this product: 3 out of 5 stars

The Good: It has a thick, creamy consistency; not greasy. I used this product for shingling after shampooing, shampooing and conditioning and two strand twists for a twist-out after shampoo & conditioning. The smell is divine and doesn’t feel greasy or heavy. You get a generous amount of product in the jar. When I shingled, I didn’t use several golf ball scoops as much as the  Miss Jessie’s video (that was a LOT of product used in that video), but I used a bit more than I usually do. I usually use an amount about the size of a quarter for each section of my hair. I expected to get definition, but it did the exact opposite – it made my hair even more poofy than it already is. I expected it to smooth the surface of my hair; instead, it seemed to make my hair look ‘fuzzier’ than normal. I have a really tight curl pattern and it is difficult to extend. It didn’t make my hair shrink, but it made it feel a LOT thicker than it is – and I have really dense, thick hair already. This made it difficult using a pick, even while it was still a bit damp. I probably added a few centimeters to my biceps when I was picking it out. It did make my hair soft, but it was a different kind of soft than I’m accustomed to – soft like cotton. By the second day, I looked like I had a super poof –noticeably larger than usual. I do like it for this, but it was a struggle to get that way. I used a bit less product the times after. It wasn’t as difficult to get a pick through my hair after the initial use, but the results were only average. I played with this smoothie a while before I wrote this, hoping my different combinations would get me the definition I was expecting, it never happened.

The Bad: It was really hard for me to get a pick through my hair when I ended up with the better results. I expected to get definition and it didn’t deliver for me – at least not in the way I expected.

The Final Word: I won’t purchase this product again, but will play with what I have remaining, using various additions, like aloe or flax gel, olive or soy butters.

Buy Now from Amazon: Shea Moisture Organic Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie

Natural Hair Stylists

Natural Hair Stylists This is a guest post by community member Val.

Many of us Curly Ladies take the DIY approach when it comes to handling our hair. Getting to know your delicate tresses takes time and multiple trials and errors. For those of us with 4 type curls, we must be extra careful with tugging and pulling our tightly curled hair.

When visiting stylists you must choose carefully who you let handle your hair. Many stylists are taking note of the current shift in the hair industry. We now have the Natural Hair Life Style Choice – Many ladies are leaving behind the relaxers and embracing their natural curls. For stylists this can either be a boom or bust.

It is now becoming prevalent to offer natural hair styling services such as Blow outs and Press and Curls. This is a great option for those of us who enjoy the diversity of being able to wear our hair straight or curly. If simply for a trim to get rid of knots and split ends, it’s wonderful that stylists’ have embarked on this investment of learning to handle kinky/curly hair.

Although they have handled hundreds of heads, you may want to consider adding a few preparation steps before hand. Some ladies are not very comfortable with the amount of heat that may be used on their hair, some may be uncomfortable with the blow drying method, or even the tugging and pulling on their curly hair – just for a professional TRIM.

Here is a helpful tip to consider:

If you are being shampooed at the salon, prepare your hair with a pre-poo treatment. Strengthen and protect your strands for the amount of heat that is about to be applied.

For naturals that are concerned about heat damage and how their hair will be handled, you can take the following steps to settle any uneasiness. If you are just looking for a maintenance trim, consider blow drying your hair on your own:

  • This will eliminate the amount of heat being directly applied, hair loss and pulling
  • Many stylists do not use comb attachments so it’s a constant repetition of a paddle brush against your hair until its dry
  • Request to be pressed/flat ironed on medium heat with less passes
  • Fewer passes might not leave you with bone straight hair but will avoid heat damage

Some ladies are not very comfortable with the generous amount of hair being lost, before the actual trim. This is why it would be best to start the process yourself, then assistance from the stylist with a quick flat iron and trim. Plus it just might save you a bit more money for a press and trim.

Understand your hair and its needs and you will have no worries.

Val is a Caribbean native who now lives in Texas. She had a relaxer in elementary school for maybe one year, but by the 5th grade was all natural. To read more from Val check our her Natural and Professional blog.